USS Mullinnix DD-944

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01 October, 2010

50 Years Ago Today –Mullinnix Pulls into Antwerp, Belgium

Excerpt from “The Last Gun Ship - History of USS Mullinnix DD-944” - A Historical Novel By Frank A. Wood

Saturday, 1 October found the ship in a concentric circular screen with 23 other US and NATO ships. The following day, steaming in company with Task Element 20.9.7.2 composed of USS Laffey DD-724, USS Lester DE-1022, and USS Claude Jones DE-1033, she departed NATO operations and headed towards Antwerp, Belgium in accordance with Commander Carrier Division SIX OP-ORD 56-60. The rumors coming true, it appeared.

In route, the ship received the fleet’s Chaplin via highline from the Laffey. At 0433, Civilian Belgium Pilot Captain E. Nierynck came on board the aid the ship to enter Ielihgen channel. At 0922 she entered Belgium waters. Civilian tug Michel Gerling came alongside to starboards and took tow line from Mullinnix. She maneuvered at various speeds and courses to moor alongside berth 21, Schelde River Quay, Antwerp, Belgium.

Like many Flemish cities Antwerp grew up around two settlements : the ‘aanwerp’ or ‘alluvial mound’ from which the city probably derives its name, and Caloes, 500 meters further south. A fortification was built on the mound around the seventh century. Christianization also began in that period. In the ninth century, when Antwerp became part of Lorraine, that ‘castellum’ was destroyed by the Norman's.

Antwerp, daughter of the River Scheldt, host of the VII (7th) OLYMPIAD in 1920, and second largest city of Belgium. The inhabitants call it the 'Metropolis' (Antwerpians are known in Belgium for not being too modest). It is the second largest harbor of Europe (after Rotterdam). Antwerp is a splendid city with numerous architectural highlights, most of which date from the 16th (the golden era of Antwerp) and the 17th century. The destructions of the Second World War, unfortunately, has scarred somehow the fair face of the old town. Still there are enough monuments left for those who like monument-hopping to spend a few days admiring them. The past is also represented by the numerous paintings of Peter Paul Rubens who lived in the Antwerp in the early 17th century.

Antwerp is also the diamond center of the World. ‘If diamonds really are a girl's best friend’, than a number of the crew didn’t waste their time visiting the diamond district near the railway station. The presence of many 'Chassidic' Jewish people in this same district gave the city a flair that couldn’t be found in other Belgian cities.

The night life? Well, in a word, it would put the strip outside D&S Piers to shame. The crew felt like they had arrived in a northern wonderland with places like Cafe d'Anvers, situated in the city's red light district (called "Schipperskwartier"), considered by many to be one of Belgium's finest dance clubs. From flashing lights to flashy decor, the scene was for extroverts, and sailors, only. Once inside, a balcony provided the crew a bird's-eye view of the dance floor, where crowds grooved to house beats.

Or De Pelgrom – with it’s ambiance of a charming tavern serving Belgian brews, occupying a 16th-century cellar. Most aspects of the decor fit the age-old theme, from long wooden benches to candles for (almost all) the illumination. Distressed brick walls contributed to the medieval aesthetic.

Or De Vagant which boasts Belgian gin over its better-known cousin, Belgian beer. Here, jenever is the only drink on tap, although it's available in more than 200 formulations. Shipmates drank from traditional gins to wild concoctions like blood orange or passion fruit jenever.

Antwerp was as lively after dark as it is busy during the day. FTGs Howard McGee and Brian Smythe couldn’t wait to hit the beach. The thick wet fog was just lifting as they walked off the gangplank but mist still rose from the harbor’s water. Taking a deep breath of icy air, Smythe said, “ Howard (he never called McGee by his first name), ya’know something?...

To be continued...
Cheers,
Woody

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